Submitted by Immortal_Object_69 t3_10uo6s2 in BuyItForLife
Looking for footwear that lasts longer than 2 years, and I'm confused by the sheer number of options out there. I'm willing to spend if it gets me better value, rn the budget is $250. Must be a goodyear welt, and preferably fashionable for a Gen Z kid.
I'll second Whites Boots. Stellar craftsmanship and can be re-soled when needed.
Going to be difficult with the budget but you may be able to find some factory seconds from red wings that fall within the budget.
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You can get new Thursday boots for $200.
I wear out the outside heels so fast. The rest of the shoe is fine or even great shape, but the outside heels is worn to the point I toss them. I started putting heel taps on anything I can get them on. Tricky and annoying to put on them sneakers, since they are hard plastic. I have chukkas that have miles, I mean miles, that are five years old and still look great. If you have this issue put taps on. That said I have thorogoods that have held up for years without taps. On sale redwings or higher end wolverines. Whites, oak street etc are all very pricey but well made. Good luck
Thursday boots, Captain or President, rugged leather. Moc Toe ones are good too.
r/goodyearwelt might be helpful
Lewis Leathers.
IMO - BIFL is well intentioned. But r/goodyearwelt are the people you want to talk to.
You can get Thursday Captains that are still $200. But really best value is in old stock new boots. The problem is you need to know what to buy and every place is different. For example you can still get very high quality boots that are army surplus. I have paid $40 for boots that are as well made as a $300 boot but just as easily as there is good stuff there there is also garbage. And each country will have different options.
I personally either just go to surplus stores and look. But now that I know my sizing and what I am looking for I can order online on poshmark or grailed as things turn up there. Here is an example.
https://poshmark.ca/listing/Biltrite-Steel-Toe-Black-Leather-Boots-Size-6D-63d61cff0164d0208e760a50
This type of boot they stopped making in 2020 but I found brand new ones in my size at the end of last year to buy. This boot here is easily as well made as a Thursday and likely even better then that. This boot has a solid leather foot bed more like an iron ranger and those cost $350. Again there are lots of examples like this. The problem is knowing sizing if you are buying online.
So while I have more expensive boots the ones above are my go to and have been for almost 30 years. And I can buy almost 10 pairs of them for the price of a red wing iron ranger. And over the years I have.
Can't believe noone mentioned Jim Green. They're by far the most boot for the money. No fancy designs, just simple durable leather boots, using stitchdown welt construction. Get the African Rangers for a nice airy summer boot, or the double laster AR8 or Razorbacks for a more rugged thick hiking boot. Or the Stockman for the chelsea style work boot...
Goodyear welt is the most known type of a welt. But it's not the only one. Other welts are just as good, for example like the Norwegian Storm-welt or a hand welt (saddle stitched...). Stitchdown is another type of a welt, it's more waterproof than a goodyear welt and makes a flat space underneath. There's no filler material needed with stitchdown (you could use extra leather midsoles on really high end boots for more insulation, but typically not... with goodyear you need to use some filler like cork) and they make the boot a bit more wide. Very comfy and durable but definitely not as fancy/dressy as a goodyear welt...
Either way, most welted boots can be resoled, stitchdown is just as resoleable as a goodyear welted construction...
Honestly, $200-$250 is kind of the minimum to get a decent pair of good looking boots. Thursdays are pretty good for what they are, and unless you're really hard on your footwear they should last you a few resoles. But if you're looking for something to use daily and last you years and years, I'd agree with most of the other commenters and say you're probably better off going to one of the PNW boot makers like Whites, or Nick's, or JK. You'll have to double your budget, but they're well worth the money hand have hundreds of years of great reputations.
What's a double laster AR8?
double-lasted*
The AR8 is a boot model. Double lasted means those models have two layers of leather instead of one - they are fully leather lined, and together at least about 4mm of leather thickness anywhere. These are also even more water resistant. Ar8, razorback and the stockman are double lasted for sure, don't know about most other models.
Single lasted stitchdown is very basic - one layer of leather, curved outwards and stitched down to the midsole, with the rubber (outsole) glued on the bottom.
Double lasted - the outer layer is curved outwards and the inner kayer is curved inwards. That's also what gives more water resistance....
J1M1C1 t1_j7d0oda wrote